How often have you come across a bag or a dress that someone has just made really poorly?
I remember once being in England at Debenhams having a look through the children’s clothing and flicking through a Trellis Cooper dress for one of my granddaughters. Of course being a seamstress, as you do, I had a good old nosey at the stitching, and I kid you not; I pulled on one of the overlocking threads (which didn’t even have a safety chain stitch ) and the whole seam came apart!
For the price they were commanding for such dress, I would have been most peeved had I got this home and this had happened.
So…..Handbags existed long before industrial manufacturing came on the scene and the term “Handmade” was literal, no machines were involved at all in the handcrafting of the bag. For eg the saddle bag, carefully & meticulously hand sewn stitch by stitch.
Each handbag that was made, carried a unique personal touch of the artisan & who were known by their particular style of stitching, their choice of materials or style.
We all have had to start somewhere right? My bags when I first started were real doozies!
I began to navigate the world of bag making by watching tutorials, making lots of bags (and lots of mistakes ) and challenged myself always to become better at my skill.
I don’t know about you, but once I have decided that today is the day I want to make a bag, chosen the pattern, and selected the materials, I’m like a bull in a china shop, I want to cut, prep, and make it all in one day and hopefully sell it too!!!
That’s the problem right there!
Our impatience to get to that finish line which compromises our finished product.
So, my two cents worth is; TAKE IT SLOW AND ENJOY THE PROCESS. As the old adage goes “Rome wasn’t built in a day and we are testament to many roman roads still standing the test of time.
Without further adieu, I thought I’d share a few techniques with you ( most of you may already be familiar with these, but a good smack across the ol chops as my grandmother would say, is always a good reminder to bring us back in line if we have become a bit sloppy and lazy) for achieving a great finish which you not only can be proud of, but confident enough in your handiwork to sell and command a fair price.
So lets not just slap em bags together lets begin with:
GOOD BAG PREPARATION. ( the part we all grumble about! )
As a seamstress I was always taught to PRE-WASH my fabrics first to prevent shrinkage. Now you may well question “I’m not going to be washing my bag” Well no, BUT when you fuse fusing to your bag or any form of stabiliser using a steam iron or a heat press this can cause your fabric to shrink a little, unbeknown to you, until you discover your lining or outer don’t align together. One is smaller than the other, but you know that you cut them the same and now it’s a “oh bugger” moment.
Obviously I am referring to cotton fabrics here, and not faux leather or water proof canvas.
It’s essential to also press your fabric if using cottons FIRST before you cut, you want to get rid of those folds and lines then once you have a crisp, flat fabric it will be much easier to accurately cut pieces. ( we all have experienced what a palava it is to remove those stubborn creases once the bag is completed).
CARE OF FABRIC DURING CONSTRUCTION.
When using cotton fabric’s its important to iron throughout your construction process. ( we get lazy and do the ol finger press which just doesn’t always cut it) This helps immensly to get that good, clean finish which doesn’t end up looking lop sided and poorly put together. Your sewing patterns usually have clear instruction when and where it is neccessary to iron, like pressing open your seam allowances to lay flat or pressed to one side whatever the instructions are it is important when your main outer and lining fabrics sit together perfectly, otherwise the bag will not lie right and bulk up the seams.
TAKE THE TIME TO DO IT, REMEMBER IT’S NOT A RACE, THE GOAL IS TO HAVE A BEAUTIFUL END PRODUCT
and that all begins with good preperation.
And of course, my favourite, DOUBLE SIDED TAPE know as DST is your best friend; especially when ironing is not plausable and you need to get those seams flat. SPLAY your seams out using DST. When doing your zippers, ( adding an overlay) its so important that the zip seams lay flat, I use DST under the zip to lay them flat so that the lining and the faux sit evenly together and I am able to sew an even distance around my zipper edge.
INTERFACING /INTERLINING
I find interfacing ( fusible ) and interlining ( sew in ) an absolute must for giving bags strength, stability, body and shape. This really does make a huge difference to the end product.
When I use faux leather as my outer fabric and I apply decovil or foam ( always remember to cut smaller so that it is not in your seam allowance to prevent bulk.) I always fuse interfacing over my Decovil or foam to hold it in place more securely, and with the point of the iron I go around and press down the edges. This way I’m assured that as I sew my decovil is not coming apart (which it often can ) or shifting around if it hasn’t been fused long enough.
It’s really important not to distort your faux leather by using too much heat this changes the interface of the faux leather.
Always a little less than more, and go back if need be.
LINING FABRIC
For a top quality finish it is always good to use a good quality lining fabric. ( I personally keep well away from the Rayons, Viscose those silky slippery buggers that also tend to fray easily )
Interfacings and Interlinings go inbetween the main and lining fabric layers and is hidden including our seam allowances, ( we don’t like raw edges )
Linings offer that extra layer of stability and strength to your bag and will make it last far longer and look perfect inside.
I like my linings to look as good as the outside of my bag and make a statement.
Use a combination of fabrics like fabric from the same fabric collection so that it all ties in.
YOU WANT TO GET A LITTLE “WOW” WHEN YOUR CUSTOMER OPENS HER BAG!
TOP STITCHING FOR FUNCTION AND APPEAL.
Top stitching is not only functional but decorative and BAD topstitching can make or break the bag. Good topstitching not only serves a purpose ( holding parts together ) but it also makes the overall look of the bag more appealing and professional looking.
TAKE YOUR TIME WHEN TOPSTITCHING….. Increase your stitch length and also consider using a varigated thread to add that wow factor to your finish. Use a good stitch guide so that you are not just “winging it ” and your top stitching is all wonky. If you don’t feel confident at top stitch at what is normally recommended as an eigth of an inch go bigger if it gives you more control. I often do a quater of an inch.
Make sure before you topstich that your lining and exterior are laying flat especially at the joins.
A HUMP JACK is wonderful for those thicker seams so you continue to get an even stitch length and not those peasky annoying tiny stitches when your machine struggles over those thicker parts.
For a nice aestheticallly pleasing bag look at topstiching pocket flaps, and closure flaps, tabs, and the edge of your slip pocket. A double layer of top stiching offers a nice twin needle effect.
It is so rewarding making something handcrafted, either as a gift for a friend, to sell or just to keep for yourself.
You want people to notice your handbag and ask, “Oh where did you get that beautiful handbag from?” and you can proudly say ” Well, I made it myself”!
If you plan to sell your makes then I’d definately suggest going the EXTRA MILE to ensure your bags are finished off as professionally as possible.
Nobody expects perfection ( infact too perfect is not good ) you still want to see that something has been “handmade” and not mass produced in some factory in China. Right?
There is so much choice out there and competition, everyone seems to be making and selling something handmade.
Put the “extra” into your makes so that they look amazing and last a descent amount of time, after all, your customers are paying a premium price for something and quite rightly expect the quality of workmanship to be high!
I hope this has been helpful and keep an eye out for the next blog post ( I promise it will be shorter!)
Mel